Saturday, January 29, 2011

aidez, and a seaming manifesto (well, sort of...)

Me: Hey Stuart, could I impose upon you for a really big favor? Please please?
Stuart: Mmmm?
Me: Could you come outside in the snow for a couple minutes to take pictures of me in my new sweater?
Stuart: If you grab me a beer afterwards.
Me: Deal.

I offer you the above conversation merely to explain why all the pictures of me in stuff I knit are taken in the back yard with fences and neighbors' garages in the background. Maybe in warmer weather I'll haul the nice camera to the park to make a better setting. By then I doubt I'll want to model warm sweaters, though.

In any case, I present to you - Aidez! Pour moi!



As I mentioned a couple of posts ago, I liked this design the instant I saw it. The actual knitting did not disappoint, either. Not one little bit.



For one thing, the gauge is listed at 15st = 4" on size 10 needles, so it goes fast. For another thing, each piece of the sweater has a different cable pattern, so it never gets boring. Also, the back neck is just knit as an extension of the fronts, so there is no picking up stitches; once you knit the back and sleeves and front, you're done but for the sewing up.



Speaking of sewing up, I'm going to offer up my opinion here about seamed vs. seamless designs. For experienced knitters reading this, it's an old debate, so feel free to skip ahead to more pictures, such as they are. However, for non-knitters or new knitters reading and interested in learning more, please continue.

Two of the greatest knitters of the last century - Elizabeth Zimmerman (may she rest in peace) and Barbara Walker (still going strong at 80+!) - were advocates for knitting sweaters in one piece, either from the bottom-up (in the case of EZ) or the top-down (Walker wrote a whole book about that). Lately, many designers have followed suit, acknowledging knitters' desire to avoid things like too much purling, or having lots of work assembling a sweater after all the pieces have been knitted. There are, certainly, some advantages to knitting a sweater in one piece. Knitting stockinette stitch in the round is all knitting, and is usually faster than going back and forth between knit and purl rows. If it's done from the top-down, for example, you can try it on as you go, and things like adjusting length are easier when you're doing it all at once. And then there's the issue of seaming. A lot of knitters hate it, or think it's difficult, so they avoid it.

Now, I have made my fair share of sweaters in one piece. Anya's Owl Sweater from a couple years ago was a bottom-up design. I've made approximately a zillion and one top-down plain sweaters from Knitting Pure and Simple patterns for various children, including mine. My Equinox Raglan and Lace Leaf Tee are both top-down designs, and they are two of my personal favorites.

BUT. You have to be careful with one-piece designs, especially those large enough for adults to wear. Put another way, seams definitely have an advantage when it comes to certain issues like s-t-r-e-t-c-h. Seams provide structure and stability to a garment, which is particularly important for sweaters large enough to fit adults, sweaters made out of non-elastic yarn (like cotton, or even alpaca), and sweaters with cabled and/or textured designs that add bulk and weight to the finished item. I like seamless sweater designs for the following:

1. Children and babies. Seams add ridges that could cause discomfort to delicate skin. Smaller sweaters are less likely to stretch out of shape, and if they do, so what? Kids grow so fast, it hardly matters.

2. Plain, stockinette designs. Without cables or lots of texture, a plain st st sweater is less likely to be so heavy, particularly if it's made in a light, lofty yarn (see above re: Equinox Raglan).

3. Colorwork and fair isle. I confess I have yet to make a whole sweater with colorwork, but there are several in my queue, and I hope to get to one soon. I have, however, made hats and mittens aplenty with fair isle designs. Long ago, I made Stuart a sweater with a fair isle pattern on the top which he wore twice...I've learned a lot about his taste in clothing since then...lesson learned...anyway, it was done in pieces with colorwork back and forth, and let me tell you, that was a HUGE pain in the tush. Never again.

Another potential drawback to knitting a sweater in one piece is that if you screw up, there's that much more knitting to rip out to fix the mistake.

But now, back to my Aidez.



I didn't mind the seaming at all. With the different cable patterns on each piece, doing everything at once would have required a lot more concentration than it took to do just one at a time. And - not to beat the dead horse or anything - since this design has so many cables, it's denser and heavier than a plain st st sweater would have been, so the seams add to the structure of the overall sweater. This is particularly true for mine because I substituted a 100% alpaca yarn (huzzah for stash-busting!) for the regular wool yarn the pattern called for, and alpaca is prone to stretching out of shape.



Pattern: Aidez, free from the Berroco website.
Yarn: Misti Alpaca Chunky in a pale, heathery blue shade. I bought it on clearance at WEBS at least a couple of years ago without a plan (something I almost never do), and thought that this design seemed like a good match. I was right. I don't regret the yarn substitution (the original calls for Peruvia Quick) for a second. Knitting - and wearing! - the yarn is heavenly.
Mods: My gauge was slightly off, 16st = 4" instead of the called-for 15st = 4". I didn't want to knit looser, so I followed the numbers for a larger size. It's a smidge tighter than I had planned on, but I hate floppy sweaters, so I'm actually quite happy with the fit. I also made the whole thing a couple inches shorter than the original pattern.

I leave you with the silly shot from this afternoon:

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

i have a new sweater!

...but here's just a little preview, since I won't have a chance to take better photos until the weekend.



Now, would you believe I don't have any WIPs? (Let's ignore a couple of years-old projects that I'll probably never finish). I'm chomping at the bit to start something new. But what? I'm rather paralyzed by indecision, so tonight's knitting may be a simple sock or swatching for future projects.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

i blame da packers

Before I show you my latest screw-up, allow me to share a couple of silly kid pictures. Here they are watching the TeeVee yesterday; evidently, Daniel finds Clifford more interesting upside down.



Here's Anya all bundled up on the way to the grocery store, wearing a smattering of handknits, including my stolen teal Ptarmigan, a black hat with kitty ears I made for Halloween two years ago and never blogged, and yellow mittens that match her bobbly hat:



And now, back to regularly scheduled knitting. I've been smitten with this cardigan since it was published as a free pattern on the Berroco website. Less than two weeks ago, with my Urban Aran fresh off the needles, I cast on. I think this may be just about the quickest sweater (adult-sized, anyway) I've ever made! Or so I thought...

You see, this afternoon during the Packers-Bears game (w00t!) I cast off the final piece, the left front (I knit in this order: back, sleeves, fronts). When I went to block everything a little while later, I noticed the fronts didn't exactly match, and to my frustration, I realized why:



Despite the lousy quality of this photo, you can see that I left a couple of rows out in one of the repeats of this particular pattern. It's the piece I just finished knitting, and while the mistake is probably a couple of days old, I'm going to blame the exciting football game for the fact that I didn't notice until I had everything all pinned down and dampened with water. Now, I normally don't watch football or even pay attention, but yo, it's the Packers against the Bears (age-old rivals!) in a playoff game...I couldn't help but see this one.

When my husband is done watching the Steelers/Jets game (I've seen enough football for today, I think) I'm going to settle down with my cup of tea in front of PBS and knit...what? Oddly enough, I've been knitting one project at a time, and since that sweater piece with the mistake has to dry before I can rip and reknit it, I'm a little at odds about what to do next. I could really use some socks. I really want to make these mittens for Daniel, not because he needs them, really, but because I really want to make them. There are a few new babies (friends near and far) I ought to knit something for, if only some squishy balls from Itty Bitty Toys.

In any case, I better decide soon, because Stuart tells me there is about 10 minutes left in the game before it's my turn in front of the television!

Friday, January 21, 2011

little rascal winding yarn



(It's good to have a helper.)

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Sunday, January 16, 2011

urban aran

At last, an FO post for my urban aran cardigan!



The story of this sweater is really more of a saga, starting with getting the yarn. It's just Cascade Eco-wool in one of the natural shades (brown so dark it's almost black). Two years ago, my MIL gave me a most wonderful birthday present: a gift card to the LYS in her town in central Kansas. We were visiting for Christmas, so I went to use it right away, and one of the things I bought was 3 skeins of eco-wool for the urban aran cardigan. I'd been wanting to make one for ages. Alas, when the store owner began to wind the yarn for me, it came apart, as though someone had taken a scissors to the middle of the skein and just shredded it. No matter, she had an extra skein...but it exhibited the same problem. Whether someone had vandalized the yarn in the shop, or it had just been shipped with that terrible flaw, we'll never know. She took down my address and promised to mail me some more when a new shipment came in.

So I waited, and waited and the yarn never came. I called the shop, and she said new yarn hadn't arrived yet. I waited several weeks more and called the shop again. This time, yes the yarn had arrived, but she had forgotten to send it. Profuse apologies followed, with the promise to get it sent right away.

Still no yarn. I gave up.

Then my friend and piano partner, who is also an avid knitter and knew about this whole yarn saga, noticed the shop was having a big sale and offered to pick up the yarn for me at a discount and send it. A week later, I finally had my yarn and was more or less all set to go.

(I'm not naming or linking the shop because I don't want to damage their business. Yes, they were disorganized with this particular situation, but they carry a beautiful selection of yarn, and it's the sort of local business I want to succeed in a small town.)



It still took me about six months to get this sweater done, despite the relatively big gauge and straight forward pattern. I had gauge issues and kept getting distracted with other projects. I think the actual knitting time was only a few weeks, though.



One setback was that I knit the entire back piece twice! I had it all done and finished when I held it up to myself and noticed that those slanting cables on the sides were placed very unflatteringly, causing the knitting to pull in right at that part of my middle where the postpartum bulge will never disappear. So I frogged it down to the first couple inches of ribbing and re-knit it, moving the cables up to form a natural waist shaping. It was totally worth it.



Otherwise, I made no modifications except the ones already specified by Jared Flood, making the sweater into a cardigan (the original pattern in the Patons booklet is a pullover) and adding a couple of decreases in the collar around the shoulders so it won't flare too badly.



You can see my kludgy sewing job on the 2-way zipper. I couldn't wait for the one I'd ordered to arrive, so I just went ahead and installed the too-long one I bought at the craft store, folding over the excess and tacking it down inside the collar. It doesn't look fabulous, but it'll do. If I ever zip it up too enthusiastically and pull the zipper tab off, though, I'll have to go to the work of sewing in a new one. When/if that happens, I think I'll just use a regular separating zipper. I was so determined to have a 2-way zipper (just like Jared's! I'm such a fan girl!!)...and now I'm not so sure. The look is nice and I like the versatility of zipping open the top and bottom to accommodate my comfort level, but I have to slip the sweater on and off over my head. That's kind of a nuisance, and it's made the ribbing stretch out a little at the bottom already, something that I suspect wouldn't be a problem if I could get it on and off like a regular cardigan.

My kind husband agreed to a short photo session this morning - "short" being the operative word here, seeing as it was all of 12 degrees outside! We both went running earlier today, which wasn't so bad, but standing still in the snow to take pictures gets really cold really fast.





Pattern: Urban Aran pullover from Patons booklet Street Smart with Jared Flood's modifications to make it a cardigan.
Yarn: Cascade Ecowool, just over 2 giants skeins (I have lots leftover!)
Needles: size 9 for ribbing, size 10 for the main knitting, maybe size 8 for the collar, but I don't remember exactly
Mods: In addition to the cardigan mods, I moved the slanty side cables up 2" to make the sweater more flattering...or slightly less unflattering. There's still an annoying pooch in the front that may be from shoddy zipper installation or floppy ribbing from pulling it on over my head. Still, I love this sweater!

Monday, January 10, 2011

here goes nuthin'

Well, everyone. Here goes nuthin'!



I've spent the whole evening writing up the pattern and charts for a yellow hat I made Anya over the summer. I meant to publish the pattern here months ago, in time for fall knitting, but I wanted to make real charts and didn't have the software. I tried using Excel, briefly, but it just wasn't working for me. So on a recommendation from Revknits, I sent my husband an email with a link to Intwined Studio and the simple message "I want this!" and lo and behold, I got it for my birthday a couple weeks ago!



This evening is the first time I've really had a chance to sit down and play with the program, and boy is it nice. I'm not great at navigating unfamiliar software, unfortunately, but this program is fairly intuitive. My only problem now is that I don't know how to get everything into one whole document; the text and charts are all saved as separate files, which is kind of annoying. Also, they look tiny on this blog post, and I'm not sure what to do about that. If you click on the images, though, you'll get something regular-sized to look at.

BUT, you guys get a free pattern out of deal. With charts! And now that I'm having so much fun with it, I plan to re-write a couple of my older patterns because really, those line-by-line instructions for cables make me crazy.

Without further ado...



Anya's Bobbly Hat

Description: This little topper knits up easily in a DK weight yarn for your favorite toddler! Sweet bobbles and a bold rippling cable make for interesting knitting that is easier than it looks. Really. The decreases at the top of the hat are a little more complicated, but were designed to preserve the swirl of the cables as they approach the crown. Consider sizing up the gauge for a hat that would fit an older child or adult.

Finished size: approx. 17" circumference unstretched; cable pattern allows for considerable stretch!

Skills required: knit, purl, knitting in the round, working cables, working bobbles, make one, decreasing with k2tog and p2tog,
reading charts

Materials needed:
2 skeins Valley Yarns Superwash DK in "soft yellow" (50g, 137 yards superwash merino wool); the hat actually requires just over 1 skein Circular needles: size 3 and size 6, each 16" long, plus one set size 6 DPNs for crown decreases Cable needle

Gauge: 22st = 4" in st st on size 6 needles, 28st = 4" in pattern st on size 6 needles

Note: on Round 14 of decrease chart, the first p2tog requires that you use the last stitch of Round 13 for the decrease. The
missing stitch is shown on Round 14 on the chart.

Instructions for hat:
With size 3 needles, using method of choice (I always use long-tail), CO 124 stitches and join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

Work in k2p2 rib for 3.5", or desired length of brim.

Changing to size 6 circular needles, work set-up round as follows: (p2, k5, p5, k5, M1, p3) two times, (p2, k5, p5, k6, p3) four times. You now have 126 stitches.

Begin working Chart One. The 21-stitch pattern repeats six times each round. Work all 12 rounds of Chart One twice.

Work the 20 rounds of Chart Two, noting that on Round 14 of decrease chart, the first p2tog requires that you use the last stitch of Round 13 for the decrease. (The missing stitch is shown on Round 14 on the chart.) Switch to size 6 DPNs when the decreases make working on a circular needle too difficult.

After Round 20, 12 stitches remain. (k2tog) 6 times. 6 stitches remain. Break yarn and pull through remaining stitches. Weave in ends and block hat as desired.






Saturday, January 08, 2011

I almost have a new sweater

Check it out:



I have been working on this Urban Aran Cardigan/Jacket for a long time, off and on since last spring. Gauge problems, a badly placed cable pattern, warm weather, and various other distractions caused me to set it aside several times. So what should have been a quick knit turned into a ridiculously long-term project! Once the Christmas knitting was done, I was itching to get some selfish knitting done, so I decided to wrap this up. Since I picked it back up last week, it's been going pretty fast. The fact that most of it was knit twice (see above re: gauge issues and badly placed cables...) meant that by the time I got going again, I hardly had to look at the chart; I think I got the left front done in about 24 hours.

In fact, if I would stop putzing around on the computer and get back to the knitting, I'd have the collar done and the sweater ready for a good soak yet this evening. All that's left after that is the zipper...and therein lies the problem. I really want to install a 2-way separating zipper, just like Jared Flood did in his version of this sweater. Last time I checked at Joann's, though, 2-way zippers only come ready-made in a few lengths, starting at 26", which is considerably longer than I would need. I'll have to custom-order one or find one online in the length I need, probably 22-23", depending on how much or even if the sweater grows after blocking. The impatient side of me is tempted to get a regular separating zipper so I can have a new sweater sooner, but I think the 2-way zipper would be a lot spiffier. I suppose it's worth the wait.

Monday, January 03, 2011

community blanket

Shortly before Christmas, I heard a story on NPR that made me weep. A high school teacher noticed a pair of sisters walking to school in the cold with one coat. When they were halfway to school, the one wearing the coat would take it off and give it to her sister. The teacher asked them quietly why they were sharing a coat, and the sisters admitted that their family couldn't afford for them each to have one. They shared the one so that neither would have to walk in the cold the entire way to school. The teacher then went out and bought a second coat, along with some gloves and hats for them because she thought it wasn't fair that any child should have to walk to school in the cold without a coat, especially right before Christmas. Now, I rarely cry, but for some reason this story hit me right in the gut and left me sobbing quietly in the kitchen while I peeled carrots for dinner that night.

Warmth is a most basic human need.

Also, there is nothing like hearing about people who are cold to get a knitter going.

For the last few months, a friend and I have been organizing a small knitting group from the church we attend (she regularly, I occasionally). When Afghans for Afghans announced their latest campaign, I printed out some information about it to share with the other knitters and try and drum up some interest in putting together a community blanket. If you've been reading for a while, you may remember I did something similar nearly two years ago. As it happens, knitters are a generous bunch, and thanks to the contributions of at least a half a dozen knitters (both financial and knitting), this one got done in about a month.



I went with the same basic design as the last community blanket - log cabin garter stitch squares - but I made a few changes. This time, we used bulky yarn instead of worsted, and this time we made 10" squares instead of 8". This made for faster knitting and fewer squares to sew up. Also, with the help of my mom, I did a single crochet border all around the edge; it helps pull the colors together and makes the edges more stable.



The finished size is 40"x50". It's very warm.



Choosing the yarn was fun. See all that dark orange? That's a whole bunch of Cascade 109 LE Bulky I ordered on clearance from WEBS two years ago to make a blanket for my brother's then-girlfriend-now-wife when she was diagnosed with Hodgkins and had to go through six months of chemo. When the yarn arrived, I decided the color wasn't right and ordered a bunch more in blue to use instead (see that FO here). So the orange yarn sat in the stash waiting to be used up or given away. When I saw how much enthusiasm there was for this blanket project, I decided it would be a good way to use up this yarn I didn't really want. We chose several complementary colors of Berocco Peruvia Quick, which is the same weight and fiber content, and every participant got a hank of orange and a hank of something else, plus instructions for knitting up the squares.

I quite like the result.



There was even some leftover for hats. I would say that making the hats out of leftovers meant that no yarn was wasted, but that would be a bit less than honest: I've got enough dark brown for one more, and even though a simple garter stitch hat on size 11 needles only takes about an hour, I have to admit that I've completely lost my mojo after doing these five! Still, another hat means another head kept warm, so maybe I'll just do it anyway.

Saturday, January 01, 2011

this one's not for anya

Do you remember my teal ptarmigan?



Anya stole it! Our first big sledding excursion of the winter, she complained about her neck being cold before we'd taken even one ride down the hill, so I gave her my ptarmigan to wear...and now it's hers. She insists on wearing it every time we go out in the cold, and she won't give it back.



I have been forced to make do with other neck coverings, most of them quite inferior. Until very recently, that is, when a good friend of mine, who was so amused that my three-year-old daughter stole an angora cowl from me, gave me two skeins of Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk in a gorgeous greenish sapphire color to make a replacement. And as soon as I finished up the Christmas knitting, that's exactly what I did!



Usually alpaca makes my neck itch, but not the Alpaca Silk. Oh, it's wonderful.




This is, of course, the second time I've knit this pattern and I enjoyed it every bit as much this time as the first. That Jared Flood, he really knows what he's doing.



This project knits up so quickly. I got more than halfway done in the car on the way to Rochester, MN, for my brother's wedding, and finished up on the way home the next day with an hour to spare.



Pattern: Ptarmigan, by Jared Flood of Brooklyn Tweed
Yarn: Alpaca Silk, by Blue Sky Alpacas, in the color "sapphire", just over one skein.



I was hoping to write this post yesterday, since the Ptarmigan was my last FO of 2010, but the weather was so awful and dreary I couldn't get any decent photos. Today is bitterly cold and extremely windy, so I had to take pictures inside (props to my mom for taking the pictures!) but at least there was some natural light we could make use of. I've got a couple smaller projects for Daniel that haven't made it onto the blog yet, and there's a community blanket for Afghans for Afghans I haven't mentioned at all yet that was one crocheted border short of making it into the FO pile before the new year! I've also got a sweater to finish and a new baby to knit for, so there should be lots of fun posts coming soon.